The scarf is finished and so I present the pattern for your pleasure and, hopefully warmth!  The lace is very simple and the work goes quickly and easily.  The little kitty face lace comes from the agile mind of Jennifer Fleury (of JenLa fame) who very kindly gave me permission to use it.  The catspaw lace is old.

As I am currently owned by two members of the feline persuasion and as I know knittendom has a great many cat lovers, the combining of the two lace patterns seemed just the thing.  As always, if you find any mistakes or if you have any difficulties with the pattern, please let me know - I will be more than happy to help.

When uploaded, the number of stitches to cast on was off - considerably off :)  Comes from having too many projects on my mind!  Anyway, it has been corrected.

9/19/2008 - It was brought to my attention this morning that the directions for the face-lace block meandered off into the seriously wonky.  This has been fixed and the pattern is as correct as I can make it now :)  Thanks for the heads-up, Carla!

Enjoy!

Here Kitty, Kitty…

Materials

DK yarn - about 400 yards.  Yarn used for model was Peer Gynt.
Size 7 US (4.5 mm) needles, circular.
Size 9 US (5.25 mm), circular.

Finished (blocked) length - about 68”
Finished (blocked) width - about 8”

All stitches are slipped purlwise unless otherwise noted.

With the larger needle, cast on 22 stitches.  Transfer to the smaller needle to commence work.

Beginning triangles

First triangle

P2, turn.
K2, turn.
P3, turn.
K3, turn.
P4, turn.
K4, turn…

Continue this way, adding a stitch on each purl row until you have done a P11 row.  Do not turn.  Repeat procedure for second triangle.

First tier

Right side triangle

1.  K2, turn.
2.  P2, turn.
3.  Kfb (in the front and back of the first stitch - an increase), SSK, turn.
4.  Sl 1, P2, turn.
5.  Kfb, K1, SSK, turn.
6.  Sl1, P3, turn.
7,  Kfb, K2, SSK, turn.
8.  Sl1, P4, turn…

Continue this way until you have completed a Kfb, K8, SSK.  Do not turn.

Cat Face Lace block

Pick up 11 stitches along the selvedge edge of next triangle (or unit)

1.  P11, (turn after each row except the last)
2.  K10, SSK (last stitch of block with first available stitch of next unit.)
3.  Sl1, P10.
4.  K10, SSK.
5.  Sl1, P10.
6.  K10, SSK.
7.  Sl1, P10.
8.  K3, yarn forward, sl5, yarn back (keep the float a little loose), K2, SSK.
9.  Sl1, P10.
10.  K3, yarn forward, sl5, yarn back, K2, SSK.
11.  Sl1, P10.
12.  K3, yarn forward, sl5, yarn back, K2, SSK.
13.  P4, M1, K3tog, M1, P4.
14.  K5, K1 inserting the needle beneath the floats created on rows 8, 10 and 12, knitting the stitch and drawing it back out from under the floats before letting the old stitch drop off the needle, K4, SSK.
15.  Sl1, P10.
16.  K3, K2tog, yo, K1, yo, SSK, K2, SSK.
17.  Sl1, P10.
18.  K10, SSK.
19.  Sl1, P10.
20.  K10, SSK.
21.  Sl1, P10.

Left side triangle

Pick up 11 stitches along the selvedge edge of next triangle (or unit)

1.  P2tog, P9, turn.
2.  K10, turn.
3.  P2 tog, P8, turn.
4.  K9, turn.
5.  P2tog, P7, turn.
6.  K8, turn…

Continue this way until you have 2 stitches left, P2tog.  Transfer last stitch back on to left-hand needle.

Turn work.

Second Tier, Catspaw Lace Blocks

Having one stitch on left-hand needle, pick up 10 stitches along selvedge edge of next unit.

1.  K11, turn (turn after each row except the last).
2.  P10, P2tog.
3.  Sl1, K10.
4.  P10, P2tog.
5.  Sl1, K2, SSK, yo, K6.
6.  P10, P2tog.
7.  Sl1, SSK, yo, K3, yo, K2tog, K3.
8.  P10, P2tog.
9.  Sl1, K1, SSK, yo, K1, yo, K2tog, K4.
10. P10, P2tog.
11. Sl1, K10.
12. P10, P2tog.
13. Sl1, K5, SSK, yo, K3.
14. P10, P2tog.
15. Sl1, K2, SSK, yo, K3, yo, K2tog, K1.
16. P10, P2tog.
17. Sl1, K3, SSK, yo, K1, K2tog, K2.
18. P10, P2tog.
19. Sl1, K10.
20. Sl1, P10.
21. Sl1, K10.
22. P10, P2tog.

Pick up 11 stitches along selvedge edge of next unit.

Repeat procedure for second block.

Turn work.

Alternate Tiers 1 and 2 for length of scarf, ending with Tier 1 and having worked Teir 1 fourteen times.

Ending Triangles

Pick up 11 stitches along selvedge edge of next unit.

1.  K11, turn (turn every row but the last).
2.  P2tog, P8, P2tog.
3.  Sl1, K9.
4.  P2tog, P7, P2tog.
5.  Sl1, K8.
6.  P2tog, P6, P2tog.
7.  Sl1, K7.
8.  P2tog, P5, P2tog.
9.  Sl1, K6.
10. P2tog, P4, P2tog.
11. Sl1, K5.
12. P2tog, P3, P2tog.
13. Sl1, K4.
14. P2tog, P2, P2tog.
15. Sl1, K3.
16. P2tog, P1, P2tog.
17. Sl1, K2.
18. P2tog twice.
19. Sl1, K1.
20. P1, P2tog.
21. K2.
22. P3tog.

Repeat procedure for second ending triangle.  End off and cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in securely.  Weave in ends and block as desired.

Oh yeah - the charts!

Notes:  The dimensions can be varied by using different weights of yarn and different needle sizes.  Sport weight on size 5 US (3.75 mm) needles would yeild something a bit more delicate while bulky yarn on size 11s US (8 mm) would give a heftier result.

I used Peer Gynt DK wool for this scarf because it’s what I had on hand.  However, this is a sturdy, rough-ish wool really intended for outer garments and is somewhat scratchy.  Something softer would be a better idea if this is going to go next to your skin - Knitpicks Merino Style is a nice soft yarn :)